Friday 17 June 2011

Shooting Modes Explained


Port Willunga, Adelaide
When you first start out in photography, the top dial of your SLR is just a complicated bunch of letters; it feels much safer to stay on that AUTOMATIC green square.

This short post is to help demystify what each of the letters stand for.

The easiest to begin with is:

Program (P): Camera sets shutter speed and aperture for you depending on the light.  You can still adjust certain controls in Program mode, such as ISO, White Balance, 

BEST FOR: Shooting when you are short of time, just beginning or if you want to ensure you shoot a particular moment with reasonable accuracy.

Aperture Priority (AV) You choose the aperture and the camera chooses the correct shutter speed to get the right amount of light for accurate exposure.

BEST FOR: Where you want to control the depth of field (amount of the scene in focus) – e.g.  landscapes and portraits.  
Landscapes (choose a larger aperture number for more depth of field).   Portraits and close ups (choose a smaller aperture to get a blurred background).

Shutter Priority (TV or S) You choose the shutter speed and the camera chooses the correct size of aperture to allow the correct amount of light to hit the sensor.

BEST FOR: When you want to control motion in a scene.  If you have a fast moving subject like sports or cars and want to freeze the action, use a fast shutter speed.  If you want to blur motion for effect, eg waterfalls, use a slow shutter speed (tripod needed under 1/60th of a second).

Manual (M) You choose both aperture and shutter speed.

BEST FOR: Maximum creativity when you have lots of time to experiment. 

Bulb (B) This permits the shutter to be open from when the shutter is pressed until it is released, usually with a cable release.  It is used for extended exposures.

ONLY FOR: extra long exposures, such as night shots, star trails.

Have fun experimenting!

Until next time,

Nicola 

Wednesday 15 June 2011

Top 5 Night Photography Tips


If you are a beginner photographer, night photography is often one of the most appealing, yet most daunting new adventures you can undertake.  This shot was taken at this year's Vivid light festival in Sydney, showing what you can achieve with a slow shutter speed and a tripod.

In this article are some tips to get you started, break the fear barrier and go out and have some fun! All you will need are some warm clothes (at this time of year in the Southern Hemisphere at least), an SLR camera, a charged battery, a tripod and heaps of enthusiasm.  I usually take some coffee and snacks too... erm, pretty much everywhere I go actually!

1.  Invest in a good quality tripod

Many camera shops offer all-in packages these days which include a tripod - beware!  These are often poor quality aluminium tripods that will blow over in a slight gust of wind!  I am a huge Manfrotto fan, and if you can afford it, invest in Manfrotto every time.  They do a great dual head which combines a ball and socket motion with a joystick panning motion, which means you can shoot any angle as well as panoramas.  Perfect.  I am still saving up to replace mine!!

2.  Shoot on time delay or with a cable release

When shooting at night you will inevitably be shooting at a slow shutter speed.  You will get all excited about taking long exposures, only to find that when you press the shutter release button, you are causing the camera to shake slightly, and all of your shots will be blurred.  Use the time delay option (the one you use when you try and get pictures of yourself with your family on holidays, where you set it and run in front of the camera like a madwoman, only to discover you have 9 and a half seconds left to pose...).  This will enable the camera to stabilize after you've pressed the shutter, before it takes the shot.  If you're feeling fancy, get a cable release.  Buy a branded one.  I got one from Ebay and it was rubbish.

3.  Turn off your flash

Flash photography won't help you too much shooting scenic photography at night.  The flash only travels a few metres, and so will often light random objects in the foreground, leaving your beautiful scene utterly black.  The only time to use it is if you want to highlight some people or an object in the foreground.  Even then, use sparingly - In a later article I will explain how you can reduce the amount of flash you use so you just add a touch of light to the scene...

4.  Set your camera to AV or A mode

AV mode allows you to choose the Aperture, or size of the opening through which the light enters your camera, whilst the camera selects the shutter speed.  As a beginner, you don't really know what shutter speed you want to use to capture your shots - this way, the camera does all the work for you - fabberlus!

Options:

a) If you want to ensure you get everything in the scene nicely in focus - Use an aperture of 22 or F22 and focus on an object about one third of the way into your shot.

b) If you want a nice sharp shot, aim for an aperture in the middle of your zoom lens range - around f8 or F11 - on most lenses this is a sweet spot, and usually generates the sharpest images.  It obviously varies from lens to lens, so I recommend you try and Google sweet spot and your particular lens brand and discover what people say is the best aperture to shoot at for your lens model.

c) If you want only part of your image in focus and other parts soft to draw attention to a particular subject, use a small aperture number - around F2.5 - F5.6.  This will give you what is known as a shallow depth of field, i.e. only part of your image is in focus (This will be discussed further in future articles).

Remember, your camera will do all the work with the shutter speed, so you can just relax.

5.  Experiment with exposure times

Once you have taken one shot with your chosen aperture, vary it up and down the range, you should have a range of around F4 to F22 to play with.  This will speed up and slow down your shutter speed and give you varied effects, especially if your subject is moving. (The title image is the streaking lights of the ferry passing the harbour bridge).

Ok, have fun and please post some images, how you got on and your own tips!!!

Until next time folks,
Nicola